PAST GROWERS
and their good advise..
It is our intent, here on our club web pages, to provide accurate and helpful information on all aspects of Fuchsia care, from knowledgeable authorities. The American Fuchsia Society as allowed us to access their library of articles concerning all aspects of Fuchsia culture, with the condition that we identify the source and author of the articles.
Portions of this article were taken from Volume 63, No.3, May/June 1991, of the American Fuchsia Society Bulletin. Paul Riviere, of the San Francisco Branch, wrote the original article. It has now been shortened, condensed, and some very limited updating has been done, however the major portion of the article is consistent with the original.
Watering, feeding, insect control, pinching and training are the important jobs in the fuchsia garden during the months of May and June. The troubles we have had with heavy frosts and cold snaps will be over and the beautiful warm days of early summer will be causing the plants to grow rapidly. They will draw moisture quickly from the soil, making it very important to keep a constant check to see that container specimens do not dry out. Keeping them protected from the sun and hot, drying winds is vital. Soil composition is one way to cope with this problem. In especially warm areas it should be a little heavier, to encourage moisture retention, and in areas blessed by cooling winds and that lovely billowy, moisture laden fog, especially the San Francisco area, the soil should be fast draining. Remember to keep plants evenly moist but never soggy.
Fuchsias should be fed regularly. Most growers use a fertilizer especially high in nitrogen during the early growing season and switch to a more balanced formulation as the warmer days of summer cause their plants to grow more rapidly and set buds. The balanced fertilizers, higher in phosphorus and potash, encourage flower production and strengthen resistance to disease. Some growers prefer to use slow release type fertilizer, but the majority appear to prefer the instantly soluble liquid type fertilizers. Which one is chosen should be used regularly. Some growers recommend using it at half the recommended strength and applying it about every ten days.
A regular watering and feeding program results in hardy, lushly foliaged plants which soon outgrow their containers, if they are being raised as container plants. A careful watch should be kept and as soon as roots can be detected coming out the drain hole, plants should be repotted in a large container. Repotting upward should be done in steps, say from a 2 inch to a 4 inch, to a 6 inch, and then a gallon size, etc.
Controlling the growth, shape, and bloom production of the plants, resulting from a regular watering and feeding program is essential. Pinching, pinching, and more pinching is the key to beautiful shape and heavy, controlled blooming. After all, it is our responsibility as AFS members to always grow beautifully shaped plants. Right? Nothing is sadder that to see a plant that does not conform to one of the standard shapes – basket, half-basket, bush, or standard – and has been allowed by its grower to evolve into a shapeless mass of stems and leaves with a few forlorn flowers. It is especially true for those growers who desire to enter their plants into branch shows or county fairs. There are many books written and illustrated which contain descriptions of the proper way to train your plants. One of the best is the American Fuchsia Societies book, “Fuchsia Culture”. Chapter two, titled “General Fuchsia Forms” by Bob Castro and Chuck Hassett, describe types of containers, choice of plants and training. Chapter three, “Decorative Forms”, written by Paul W. Craft and Bob Castro is a most informative discussion on training. Both articles are excellent, informative and will be of great help, especially to the beginning grower.
Finally, a regular insect and disease prevention program is a must. It should begin as soon as the first new growth appears and continue all through the growing season. The Brazilian mite (Fuchsia Gall Mite) is the worst enemy fuchsias have ever faced. Unless attended to immediately, this “critter” can destroy a fuchsia garden, causing misshapen, distorted new growth. It begins its devastation as the weather warms. There are a number of effective insecticides available but you should seek advise from your local nursery center for the product currently recommended and most effective. Use regularly and according to the instructions to keep your garden free of pests. Many frown on the use of chemicals but at this time there is no known organic cure for the Fuchsia Gall Mite.
Portions of this article were taken from Volume 52, No.6, June 1980, of the American Fuchsia Society Bulletin. Chuck Hassett, the AFS Bulletin Editor at that time, wrote the original article. It has now been shortened, condensed, and some very limited updating has been done, however the major portion of the article is consistent with the original. Our thanks to Chuck Hassett for sharing his knowledge with other fuchsia lovers.
WATER. Container grown fuchsias may need water daily during June hot spells. Even in mild weather areas vigorously growing plants need more attention now. Plants that are budding or blooming are especially subject to drying out. Mist the foliage morning and evening if the air is dry. Keep soil uniformly moist but not soggy to the point that air cannot reach the roots.
FEEDING. Fuchsias make continuous growth in June and need continuous feeding. Some nutrients are quickly leached from containers, so frequent light applications of liquid fertilizer are best. Diluted doses (1/5th the recommended strength) added to every watering may be the easiest way to do it. Or apply a generous amount of time-release fertilizer in pellet form. Make sure your fertilizer is high in phosphorous and potassium to encourage heavy blooming.
INSECT CONTROL. Watch for aphids, spittlebugs, cutworms, and white flies, which can spoil the appearance of your fuchsias and do considerable damage if a heavy infestation occurs. (The Fuchsia gall mite should be added to this list of insect pests to control.) Natural predators may keep the pest population down to an acceptable level in clean and healthy ground plantings, but the bad guys seem to take over quickly in greenhouses and wherever plants are grown under too-crowded conditions. Wash off aphids, as well as spittlebugs with a stream of water, or spray with a general purpose insecticide. Pick cutworms from foliage at night or from the telltale mounds of soil where they hide during the day. If they persist use an insecticide. Control white fly in greenhouses with sticky traps – yellow boards coated with a sticky substance, or spray the under side of leaves with a detergent solution.
TIP-PINCHING. This chore has ended in areas where show fuchsias are show-ready in June; except for minor pruning to improve shape. Elsewhere, stop the tip pruning soon if you want full bloom in late July. Allow 8 weeks or more of undisturbed growth for large double flowered varieties and at least 6 weeks for smaller single flowered varieties. To meet show deadlines it’s better to quit pinching a little early rather than to late; blossoms that mature to early can be removed. If you are not growing for a show, pinch until the plant has filled the container and pleases your own eye; you are the judge. In actual fact, a plant with fewer branches should reward you with larger blossoms even though they are relatively sparse.
GROUND PLANTINGS. June is an excellent time to plant strongly rooted upright growing fuchsias in the ground. Stake them for extra support, if necessary, until they are well established with a spreading root system and hardened branches. Choose a location protected from the wind and shaded from the afternoon sun.
FUCHSIA SHOWS. Visit the early summer fuchsia shows this month. They will be well worth the trip and may show you some varieties you have not seen.
Portions of this article were taken from Volume 61, No.4, July/August, 1989, of the American Fuchsia Society Bulletin. It has now been shortened, condensed, and some very limited updating has been done, however the major portion of the article is consistent with the original. The then editor of the AFS Bulleting, Chuck Hassett, authored the original article.
Beat the Heat
During the mid-summer month we expect periods of hot weather in most areas of Fuchsia Country. Temperatures above 80 degrees F are stressful to fuchsias as well as fuchsia growers. On the Pacific Coast, summer is also the time of very low humidity, which we, as growers, have to compensate for.
If practical, move potted fuchsias to deeper shade on the hottest days to slow down the transpiration of moisture from the leaves. Wet down the surrounding area and mist the foliage to keep the air humid and the leaves looking fresh. Keep the soil in the containers moist but be careful not to over water the soil. Some wilting may occur due to the inability of the plant to take up water as fast as it is being lost from the leaves. Under those conditions adding more water may cause soggy soil conditions and the roots will die from lack of oxygen.
In dry climates, fuchsias in the ground should be mulched to conserve moisture. This will be especially important where a water supply may be limited. In areas with very hot summers, where fuchsias reach their peak bloom in May and June, try giving them a hard pruning in July. They should grow back during the summer and give a strong bloom again during the cooler days of autumn.
Control Pests
Whiteflies and the fuchsia gall mite are the most troublesome summertime pests. They can do serious damage to fuchsias if they are not stopped as soon as they appear. Aphids occasionally attack fuchsias and curl the young leaves. If leaves are being eaten, look for caterpillars, cutworms and adult root weevils – the latter two feed at night.
Buy new plants from reliable sources and check them carefully for live pests and signs of pest damage. Try to avoid bringing a problem into your garden. Keep plants healthy with regular feeding of a balanced fertilizer and other good cultural practices, which discourage attack by pests.
Whiteflies can be eliminated with a thorough spraying at the first sign of infestation. Use an insecticide that lists Whiteflies as one of its targeted species. The fuchsia gall mite is more resistant to control, but control is possible by removing damaged plant parts immediately upon being noticed and then regularly spraying with an insecticide, which lists mites as a targeted species.
For pest-free gardening, keep your growing areas clean, grow healthy plants, inspect them often, and take quick action when a problem is spotted.
Encourage Blooming
Fuchsias earn some of their popularity by providing beauty throughout a long blooming season. You can encourage continual blooming by picking spent flowers and removing berries. Along with other good cultural practices, use a good fertilizer with plenty of potassium for large and brilliant flowers. Fertilize on a regular schedule. Some growers suggest a program of fertilizing every 10-14 days with half strength liquid fertilizer.
CARE OF FUCHSIAS
The following article appeared in the American Fuchsia Society Bulletin, Volume 49, No.6, June 1977 and was authored by Don Westover, Seattle, Washington. While the article itself is certainly dated, the information it contains is just as helpful now as it was then.
Care of fuchsias is simple, but must be constant. These plants cannot stand to be neglected. Protect them from direct sun during the hottest part of the day.
Plant them in loose, rich soil. Leaf mold (or compost) with peat moss and cow manure is good. (Commercial potting mixes are also good as long as they do not contain added fertilizer).
Keep them moist at all times. Fuchsias need LOTS OF WATER to grow their best. (But should have good drainage. They should NEVER stand in water). As fuchsias do not like wet feet. This usually means watering every day, especially your hanging baskets. Water the foliage as well as the roots but remember that leaves burn if the sun hits them while they are wet.
Be sure your plants have good drainage. The only exception to the above recommendation about using lots of water on fuchsias is right after you have transplanted a fuchsia into a larger container. The hair like root tips must reach out and establish themselves in the new soil. Until they have taken hold, it is easy to wash off the tips with too much heavy watering. Remember this whenever you transplant. Give the new container one good watering. Then don’t water again until the soil on top gets dry. Then just water lightly. When the plant has taken hold in its larger container, resume the generous watering as with your older plants.
Right here, while we are talking about transplanting, we would like to add another word of caution. Never transplant a fuchsia of any size any deeper than it has been growing. Never add so much soil or mulch to an old established plant that the material added covers any part of the already growing stem. New baskets and tubs should be planted with sufficient space left at the top of the container to permit generous watering. If you fill up this container later with peat moss or something else, thinking to help retain moisture, you may smother the roots, which lie very near the surface. This may choke the plant to such an extent that it will be stunted in growth or will die completely. This is most important. (Smothering the roots with dense soil that does not drain well is often the cause of plants growing poorly or failing to live.) In the spring you can revitalize an old fuchsia already established in its planter by applying a layer of cow manure. But only apply it about a half an inch thick and keep it away from the stem. (Liquid fertilizers applied at half the recommended dose also work well.)
Feed your fuchsias with a well-balanced fertilizer at least every two weeks. Generally speaking you should stop fertilizing about the first of September. We here in Crescent City have found that a good 20/20/20 balanced fertilizer at half the producers recommended strength applied every 10 days to 2 week during the growing season from the time that new growth starts to show and continue to September or October. (The new Bayer ”All in One” the rules may change as how much and how often to fertilize.)
Spray your fuchsias from time to time with a good insecticide to kill pests. (This is particularly important with the relatively recent spread of the fuchsia gall mite. More recent information would recommend a regular schedule of spraying to prevent infections of the gall mite.)
When the plants start growing in the spring, let a couple of sets of new leaves grow on the new branches, then pinch out the tip. This will make your plants bushy and give you more blooms. Blooms appear about six to eight weeks after the last pinching; so if you want your fuchsias to bloom on the 4th of July, don’t pinch after about the middle of May.
You can produce new plants in a short period of time by taking tip cuttings in the spring. These need only be about three inches long. Place them about an inch deep in sand or some other starting medium. When the roots are an inch or so long, transplant to regular growing soil.